The Fashion Industry’s Massive Transformation: Two Experts Share What You Need to Know

by | Jun 3, 2019

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(Credit: Mara Hoffman)

The fashion industry faces significant challenges when it comes to environmental responsibility. It loses about $500 billion of value every year due to lack of recycling and clothes being thrown into landfill, and it accounts for as much as 10% of global carbon emissions, according to the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion. Meanwhile, the average consumer buys 60% more pieces of clothing than 15 years ago.

But consumers are becoming increasingly conscious about the environment, and many believe it is the responsibility of the brands to protect it at each stage of the supply chain, according to a report by Fashion Revolution.

Brands are responding by making commitments to do just that. We talked with Dana Davis, VP of sustainability for fashion brand Mara Hoffman, about the shifts taking place in the fashion industry. Florian Heubrandner of textile manufacturer Lenzing shared his insights from a supply chain point of view.

 

3 Key Takeaways

 

1. When approaching a material, think of its long-term use within the brand. Focus on getting the price down by making a larger upfront commitment, then using the material over longer periods of time. This also helps with the challenge around minimums and lead times.

2. It can take time for brands to gain holistic visibility over complex supply chains and move towards a more eco-friendly production practice. Driving awareness and making transitions early is key to retain market share.

3. New, more sustainable fibers are in development stage, and are set to hit the market in coming years, leading to a wider supply of sustainable and recyclable alternatives. This can also increase the cost effectiveness for brands that produce large quantities of clothing.

 

Environmental Leader: Briefly, what has Mara Hoffman shifted in order to manufacture more responsibly?

Dana Davis: One of the main shifts the brand made was to the sourcing of fabrics. Mara Hoffman prioritizes natural, recycled and organic fibers in lieu of fur, leather and feathers. The brand has teamed up with like-minded companies such as Lenzing, where the Tencel branded plant-based cellulosic fibers are incorporated to ensure the fibers are sustainability produced. In the case of Tencel, the fibers come from sustainably harvested trees and are produced in a close-loop production process.

EL: What are the business benefits of a transition to more sustainable fiber and more responsible sourcing?

DD: Making a shift towards sustainable practices wasn’t a business decision for us, but we did quickly see the benefits. We were pushed to think outside of the traditional business model and make tweaks and changes that resulted in cost-saving exercises. For example, we limited our production, which in turn meant managing less inventory.

In the past we had looked at digital printing as an option but it was too expensive. Then we started to engineer our prints to each pattern piece, which led to less material waste, and, in turn, equalled cost savings. So in the long run, by switching to digital printing, we saved money.

 

EL: What challenges do fashion brands face when it comes to transitioning to more sustainable fiber?

DD: There are a few challenges the industry might face but they are not insurmountable. Many companies encounter issues with costs, minimums, and sometimes, quality. There’s also the challenge around certifications, which requires more time, but these are crucial to verifying that the specific fibers you are receiving are what you asked for.

EL:  How can they overcome those challenges?

DD: When approaching a material, we think of its long-term use within the brand. We focus on getting the price down by making a larger upfront commitment, and then use the material over longer periods of time. This also helps with the challenge around minimums and lead times, which is usually a challenge because not many mills will have stock of these fibers or yarns. It goes without saying that having great partners such as Lenzing truly helps alleviate some of these challenges by working with us hand-in-hand.

EL: We hear so much about a “circular fashion industry” – how would a circular industry benefit all players, and how can they begin moving toward that?

DD: Circular design reduces impact on the environment, which means greater accessibility to raw materials. Circularity also means accelerating the need for technology.

Also, like we’ve seen ourselves, this model leads to greater job opportunities, which, as some research has shown, fortifies economies. For example, we recently partnered with The Renewal Workshop to take our damaged/used inventory and refurbish it in order to resell. This not only helps us divert our waste from landfills but also helps us create a new revenue stream.   

Florian Heubrandner“Circular economy is no longer a buzzword. It has become a practice that drives fiber producers, manufacturers, consumers and other players in the ecosystem to rethink fashion. With circular economy, we can preserve materials used in clothing in a closed loop cycle. This will help lower the amount of wastage and disposal in landfills, minimizing the environmental impact of fashion in the long run.

The benefits of the circular economy are twofold: extended use and re-use. Through extended use, it will be more focused on producing durable materials to extend a garment’s lifecycle, and make long-life garments that can be repaired and be re-used at the end of their lifecycle. In addition, we also noticed that consumers have become more interested in cloths that are durable and last longer than fast fashion.

Nowadays, brands have already shown great interest in contributing to circular economy. A key trend that we had noticed is the preference to use recycled and recyclable fibers in new collections. Brands are also committed to using more durable materials in garments, and design with longevity in mind.

EL: As more companies in the fashion industry move toward responsible manufacturing, what are the risks to those that aren’t making such transitions? 

DD: The greatest concern in my mind is the possibility of a human catastrophe in their supply chains. Being sustainable isn’t just about the environment; it’s about the well-being of the people working across the supply chain. There’s also the risk that over time these companies may lose the trust of their customers, as well as employee retention.

FH: Currently, the fashion industry is considered one of the biggest contributors to landfill and ocean pollution. To reduce the environmental impact, many fashion brands have been transforming their practices and proclaiming their commitment towards sustainability. H&M, for example, has committed to making their clothing from 100% sustainable cotton by 2020. Lenzing has also witnessed a large increase in demand for other sustainable fibers, such as those made from recyclable materials and renewable production sources. We have also seen a growing number of eco-conscious consumers and public policies showing support towards stricter environmental guidelines.  

It can take time for brands to gain holistic visibility over complex supply chains and move towards a more eco-friendly production practice. Hence, driving awareness and making transitions early is key to retain market share. In view of the current situation, Lenzing continues to feel positive about the commitments and transitions in the industry. The question is no longer about losing market share, but rather, which company will make the greatest sustainable strides in the future. Another key element will be how everyone can collaborate more closely to drive sustainability in the industry ecosystem.

EL: What trends do you see in the next couple of years in terms of fashion in general and eco-fashion specifically?

DD: We have seen the growth of the rental model and second hand/vintage opportunities growing rapidly. Slow fashion has also become another focus point. Innovative technology and R&D are huge areas of focus for large companies now, which is great as the trickledown effect benefits smaller companies like ours. For example, we are very excited to see textile-to-textile recycling models coming to scale as well as more options for recycled fibers.

FH: Slow fashion is currently being revived. The enjoyment of consuming fast fashion at substantial rates is diminishing, and there has been a renewed interest in pre-loved and bespoke clothing. The cycle of consumption is slowing down, and clothing that is made from non-renewable sources will gradually phase out from fashion companies. New services such as Rent-The-Runway are now incredibly popular, with a growing number of consumers now opting to rent their clothes as opposed to purchasing them. In fact, the service’s popularity has also led it to introduce a child -focused variant in recent weeks.

Beyond the sustainable fibers that are currently available, more sustainable new fibers are currently in development stage, and are set to hit the market in the coming years. This is really exciting, because we will see a wider supply of sustainable and recyclable alternatives. This can also increase the cost effectiveness for brands that produce large quantities of clothing.

In addition, consumer education will play a vital role in future eco-fashion trends. We believe in the importance of consumer education, and we have been supporting the Make It Feel Right campaign, which aims to generate greater awareness around eco-fashion and preferred fibers among consumers.

Lenzing envisions that the industry will embrace a shift in mindsets and move away from polluting materials, such as dyes and traditionally produced cotton. With these encouraging developments, we are very optimistic about the future of sustainability and look forward to seeing what is to come.

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